SS25: The Big Four Events

Fashionistas, welcome back! Grab your juice bottles as we relive the runway razzle-dazzle of the spring-summer 2025 collections at New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks.

*clears throat*

I honestly thought about letting fashion week fade away without processing it in lengthy written words since we already lived it up on the notes tab on Substack, but I decided against it, so here we are. And if that is what connected you to us, welcome on board!

In this log, I will be highlighting some of the brands that delivered wearable garments—a good percentage at least—and whose collection piqued my interest. Disclaimer: I am in fact a champion of the ‘extremely edgy,’ do not be deceived.

If you are looking forward to a critic-centered review, I am sorry to disappoint you, as fault-finding is not in our job description. We do not debate style or any other themes on Chrysé; rather, we rant about the things we like only, and if you have been here for a while, you should be used to this way of life.

8 songs from renowned Pop stars to induce the vibe for this log. I want you to feel everything. ⏬

I fell in love with so many collections presented during fashion month, whether in Paris, New York, London, Milan, etc., and I cannot believe I settled to write about just 25% of my ‘favorites’ list. It is really easy to impress me in fashion (even if the people that know me in real life would strongly disagree), and if the designer presents a well-rounded perspective, then that is a possible plus. So here goes nothing… PS. Tap brand names to watch the runway shows.

Tory Burch: And just like that, we are reliving the Olympics all over again. This expert blend of athleticism and high fashion feels like it was crafted specially for all women who want to reverberate their power but in ‘style language.’ Tory gave us lightweight and stretchy fabrics, leotards and vests, dancer's skirts, chenille sweaters, sequined and sleek nylon swimsuits tucked into flowy trousers, tailored jackets, malleable wire waistbands on skirts, and cascading chiffon. And the pool setting for the show? Brilliant and very fitting.

Carolina Herrera: When I say give me colors, this is what I mean. Wes Gordon gave us lots of yellow, pink, red, delphinium blue, stunning fusions of black and white, together with polka dots, floral details, tweed, sequin embroidery, and bold shapes. With this accurate dose of sexiness and a masterclass in confidence, this is very much on brand for young women. Very modern yet timeless. Very effortless yet luxurious.

Off-White: Kamara turned in an applaudable wardrobe with a palette of neutrals and khakis accented with dashes of red that vibrantly echoes urbanity. My favored element was the vertical, body-conscious slant with architectural cuts sculpting the female body. We also witnessed shredded denim, angular layering, and embroidered sport numbers for the menswear. PS, what is your take on the very recent sale of the brand to Bluestar Alliance? Where are our thoughts leaning? Anyways, Virgil Abloh, you are forever the GOAT, even in outer space.

Prabal Gurung: I was cheesing soooo hard at this collection (and still am). I especially adore the bubble skirts, hybrid gowns that look like what a goddess would wear, tank-shaped flowy tops, and light-as-air chiffon plissés. Oh, if only wishes were horses and money grown on trees. And when am I never in love with the color palette?!

LaQuan Smith: In collaboration with Samsung, Smith focused on body-hugging pieces using sensual silhouettes and eye-catching metallics for a confident look. He gave us sultry sleepwear, daywear for the 9-5 woman: denim, fit trousers, jackets, and his spin on club wear: cutout body suits and sheer dresses. Three words: relaxed, glamorous, and provocatively elegant.

Michael Kors: I am a big fan of “laid back but luxurious,” and Kors went on to title this ‘Mediterranean romance?’ Befitting! This collection is among my top 5 picks for SS25 daily wear. I want to own them forever and wear them every day! Relaxed pants, soft skirts with lots of attitude, dramatic waistlines, and bare tailoring were the leading vibe on the runway. For the hues, we saw textural black and white combined with a range of earth tones, from chocolate and ecru to glowing shades of blue and green. For the garments, he gave us raffia hand-embroideries and fringes, floral fabric embroidery, high-end lace, and sleek crushed satins and cottons.

Wiederhoeft: If you love the art of corsetry, you will adore this collection. You want corsets with inclusive sizing? Wierderhoeft is your guy. And if you aspire to be an unorthodox bride, pick up your writing materials and take notes! Inspired by a now extinct small songbird, Kauai ʻōʻō, the designer showcased whimsical and avant-garde designs with ballet details, which are yes, very wearable. The brand prides itself on storytelling, and this broadway—I mean fashion show—was a no-brainer as a powerful mix of fairytaledom and gothicism was played out. Among the bridal looks were pink opera gloves, a short silver minidress, a shimmering pink embroidered dress worn with a matching bag, etc.

Ralph Lauren: On this episode, Lauren takes us to the Hamptons. The designer always offers a combo of sophistication and classic American style, and this time he did it with a dominant palette of blue, white, khaki, and tan, reflecting the beach. The collection was made of tailored suiting, metallic-infused evening wear, crochet dresses, and beach-ready daywear made from suede, leather, and linen.

Richard Quinn: Here comes the bride, and this is beyond white and ivory-colored gowns. Summer is all about weddings, and we know this brand for its romantic and dramatic gowns with 3D embellishments, so this collection was not going to be an exception. The looks were bold, structured, and made of spectacular beading and floral motifs and were Met gala-worthy, keeping in mind the theme for this year.

Sebastien Ami: Talk about simplicity and functionality. It is very much giving urban menswear, quiet luxury, understated elegance, and all the things. The color palette? Goodness gracious! The attirement echoed texture and form so beautifully with tailored blazers, oversized trenchcoats, and sleek trousers. I know this is the brand’s debut at NYFW (yes, you read right…they displayed at New York rather), but I believe the Amisial’s have established a growing influence and will be here for a long and good time. And oh, thank you for blurring the gender lines so delicately! Unisex always has my heart, and this one is just on a whole ‘notha level!

Mithridate: This costumery was my reminder to add the Rio de Janeiro carnival to my bucket list of things to experience… I know it is not in China, but you get my point. The looks? Simply divine, give me 15 of them…I mean put them in a museum right now! From tie-dying to ice-dying, Demon Zhang’s craftsmanship leaves me speechless. These designs are obviously rooted in traditional Chinese culture and went on to deliver bright and bubbly fabrics from silk to denim, lace, and even locally sourced cotton. About 50% of this collection is what my style aspires to be, believe it or not.

Rokh: For this season, the designer focused on innovative cuts and a blend of street wear with luxury. The pieces show a modern take on deconstructed tailoring, with layered, practical pieces in neutral shades, together with a triumphant fabric experimentation of pleated ruffles, asymmetrical half-frocks, peplum bursting from tank tops, and a hint of corsetry paired with draped, slouchy trousers. This was a hit!

16Arlington: Marco Capaldo sent out party-ready outfits with feathers, sequins, and striking silhouettes, perfect for evening wear. The outfits included sheer tees knotted at the bust, Python print knickers, button-downs worn over bralettes, and lots more. And of course—I have a thing for these kinds of color palettes.

Tolu Coker: Coker's lineup was exquisite and nostalgic, an ode to British-Nigerian matriarchs. She showcased sharp tailoring with high-cinched waists, A-line silhouettes, exaggerated collars, equine-influenced jackets, and balloon-hem trousers. This was a nod to the sixties, and I am in love with its vibrancy, structure, and deliciousness; the leather looks, to be more specific.

Feben: The muse for this season is Antonia Singla, a Spanish flamenco dancer and master of the art form. Feben delivered dresses with scooped necklines that flared out from the hips, figure-hugging off-the-shoulder frocks that demand the attention of the dancefloor, sculpted overcoats that migrate into car wash-like fringing, and beaded column dresses lined with feathers, all in the most stunning colors.

Burberry: Daniel Lee proposed excellent construction with this collection, from cropped capes to swishy dresses and airy tops in washed silk poplin and linen, parkas, car coats, biker jackets, feminine flowing skirts, low-rise capri pants, and fringed midi dresses hand-stitched with metallic paillettes. The color range equally felt light and refreshing; the garments came in lilacs, light blues, bright oranges with metallic touches, and so on, while the bags were buttery white leather or suede calfskin, sequined clutch bags, and cobalt blue tote bags.

Versace: First off, the color scheme is just fabulous, and I am here for all that 70’s element. Donatella, the queen of glamour, celebrated striking prints and sexy silhouettes. The elements swept through vintage hues of lavender and pale yellow to western iterations of brown leather vests, washed jeans, and suede jackets. We were also served slinky floral skirts and gowns, with zigzagged knotted cardigans and polos.

Roberto Cavalli: One word, EXOTIC! I found myself debating if my favorite look was the piece in the above collage or the sophisticated zebra print gowns undoubtedly made for contemporary mermaids; either way both stole the show and my heart. This series exudes boisterous exuberance, and I am made to understand that it is of two things: a homage to the legendary Roberto Cavalli, as he recently passed away in April, and a tale of the ‘warm sunsets and blue waves’ of Fausto Puglisi's hometown, Messina in the Mediterranean. We also noticed plenty of sexy white looks, natural fabrics like raffia, cotton, jute ropes, and silk, tasteful cutouts, high slits, short hems, you name it.

Iceberg: Neon and neutral are some of my favored hues, so believe me when I say this was very pleasing. James Long merged sportswear with luxury, featuring strong prints and athletic-inspired cuts. This collection is an explosion of energy, innovative sportswear, and vibrant colors. Long gave us reversible overcoats, wrap-around miniskirts, tailored shorts, safari jackets, suede dresses in acid tones, ribbed knit dresses with an oval neckline, mesh polos, multifunctional bags to obsess over, their debut eyewear, and so much more.

Tod's: ‘Artisanal intelligence’ was the title of the day, and you can see how fitting the nomenclature is. Matteo Tamburini allowed zero chance for gimmicks with this easy and chic presentation. The collection opened with crisp cotton pairings and transitioned into soft leather. Permit me to say ‘very demure’ this one time.

Miu Miu: This is Miu Miu in its most natural form. Miuccia focused on playful and chic ensembles for this one, to try and blend youthfulness with cool, and dare I say she achieved that. On the runway were formal skirts, 70’s-inspired geometric prints, and sporty pieces like leggings, cutout swimsuits, and shrunken track tops. The metallic belts as accessories? Commendable!

Diesel: Now this is what we know the brand for: denim haven, but this time a reinvention. Glenn Martens highlighted the brand’s signature denim with deconstructed, rebellious looks, blending streetwear with high fashion. I am all for the non-workwear route: raggedly cut denim, distressed tailored suits, and all that impeccable stuff. I know most of you hated the colored contacts on the models, but it really tickled my fancy. I loved it together with the littered denim scraps on the runway.

Max Mara: With this lineup, Griffiths paid tribute to Hypatia of Alexandria, a 4th-century mathematician and philosopher, much of whose work built on the theories of Pythagoras. This was evident in his square, narrow shoulders for tailored pieces. He gave us such timeless garments, from cotton poplin shirts to fine knit pullovers, soft ribbed-knit dresses, and the brand’s specialty: stylish coats. Mathematics might just be where it's at!

Ferragamo: Maximilian focused on streamlined designs with vibrant bursts of color to offer a youthful and energetic vibe. The selection is fueled by balletic codes: layered, twisted, and tied skin-tight cashmere cotton pieces inspired by practice apparel, as well as organza opera coats, parachute dresses in silky nylons, sequin embroidery with resin finishes, frayed stonewashed denim, and rubber jelly moccasins.

Saint Laurent: Anthony Vaccarello went back in time to summon Yves Saint Laurent himself from the great beyond, and I cannot be mad at it. Some female models were dressed as YSL in chic double-breasted suits and trenchcoats, and although they have a masculine structure and are oversized, the suits still look feminine and very flattery, and those happen to be my kind! We were also served silk brocade jackets, suede bomber jackets, mini skirts, etc., on the runway.

Hermès: Nadège Vanhée stuck to minimalist luxury with clean sleek contours and a restrained color palette of sheer and fluid fabrics, and of course their signature leatherwork, emphasizing wearable and refined elegance. The looks were so soft and featured mesh crop tops, tan hues, long sheer skirts unzipped to the thighs, bright pink dresses, belted outerwear, high-waisted denim, and so on.

Chanel: This is the first Chanel collection after Virginie Viard’s departure, and we just might be back on track. This new direction feels more fun and youthful as it celebrates haute couture techniques with a fresh take on traditional silhouettes. We saw the ultimate chanel codes: flecked metallic tweed and sophisticated color palettes, with other elements like ruffled collars, platform wedges, caped shirts, crochet dresses, silk organza tunics, bird details, and just well-bred girlishness, you know.

Elie Saab: Known for glamour, Elie Saab brought delicate lace, embroidery, and ethereal gowns to the runway, maintaining the couture brand's focus on evening wear. I loved how strictly spring-summer themed it was! You immediately feel the need to wear any of the looks right to the beach’s resort, so yes, I adore it.

Georges Hobeika: The brand showcased opulent couture pieces inspired by nature, with crocodile and snake motifs as a symbol of strength and adaptability. Hobeika gave us bold color choices, shimmering sequins, and striking snake prints highlighting contemporary femininity. I am still not over this, hence the loss for words.

Rabanne: Julien Dossena did her big one with these every day looks, from day wear to evening charm, but first, the unveiling of the 1969 18-karat pure gold bag? The world's most expensive bag at €250,000? Very on brand! Anyways, we equally saw soft pleats, fluid silhouettes, layers, pastel shades, oversized shirts, lace dresses printed with metallic foil panels, and my favorite; sharply cut blazers.

Schiaparelli: Daniel Roseberry, this insanely iconic behavior is why you won ‘International Designer of the Year’ at the 2024 CFDA Awards! You can trust the man to transform everything he touches into haute couture. Centered around women, this collection saw an insane flow of corsets with hourglass silhouettes on the runway, a white dress (in the collage above) cut in avant-garde proportions, jeans, white shirts, elegant evening gowns, denim and sheer fabrics, pearls and sequins, braids for hand and tie accessories, etc.

Acne Studios: Strutting the runway were models in innovative pieces with a combination of grunge and modern tailoring, along with oversized cuts, neutral tones, and playful textures. Johannson toppled and reimagined wax tablecloths, draped curtains, and upholstery as clothing. Also available were denim trousers ballooned at the hip, denim-like leather, chunky crochet dresses and skirts, oversized double-flannel pieces, stretchy and lightweight dresses following the body’s contours, irregular and sculptural jewelry, and peep-toe pumps in mock-croc and nappa leathers.

(Upcoming) Fashion Events you might like

• Nigerian womenswear brand, Banke Kuku’s SS25 live show (skip to timestamp 1:40:00 for main event) which took place two nights ago, oops. This collection, Oceans, was so beautifully done and this is how we know fashion week in Lagos is off to a great start!

• Lagos Fashion Week from 23rd to 27th October. Brands to be featured: Orange Culture, Kadiju, Pepper Row, Ugo Monye, Kílèntár, Éki Kéré, Emmy Kasbit, Fruché, LFJ (Love From Julez), etc.

• I know this does not take place until 2025, but the MET Gala made news rounds last week as the establishment shared details for its upcoming event. Theme: Superfine: Tailoring Black Style. Inspired by Monica L. Miller's 2009 book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. Ps: I am in doubt that the invitees would actually pull this off and also excited at the same time. Co-chairs: Anna Wintour together with some of the best-dressed men of this generation: Lewis Hamilton, Pharrell Williams, Asap Rocky, and honorary chair Lebron James.